How To Install Egt Probe On 6.0 Powerstroke

Looking for more than information on your 1997-2007 Ford vii.3 or half dozen.0 Powerstroke? This tech article supplements the instructions included with the AutoMeter #7075 Diesel Kit and gives consummate details on how to install the disquisitional gauges for keeping tabs on your modified diesel. This kit includes a boost gauge, transmission temperature gauge, and pyrometer with a gauge colonnade mount.

Suggested Items for Installation

• White, 18g or 20g automotive wire (for estimate lighting), most 4'
• Black, 18g or 20g automotive wire (for approximate basis), 6 to 10' depending on where you lot choose to footing your gauges
• Red, 18g or 20g automotive wire (for gauge powers), virtually 4'
• Any other color of 18g or 20g automotive wire (for trans temp sender), about 6 to 8'
• Little Fuse (or equivalent) Add together-a-Circuit kit for mini fuses to tap into the interior fuse box for ability
• 3x Female person spade ("quick disconnect") terminals to fit one/4" spades and the 18g or 20g wire (mentioned higher up) for the trans temp judge
• Assortment of dissimilar sized ring terminals for 18g wire
• Either 18g or 20g barrel connectors or solder and heat shrink
• Variety of zip ties (for securing wires)
• Heavy, or thick grease to apply on drill and tap when drilling and tapping the frazzle manifold
• Electric record

Suggested Tools to Consummate Kit installation

• Wire crimpers
• Wire strippers
• Soldering atomic number 26 (optional)
• 3/16" drill scrap (for drilling pillars for pod push pins/rivets)
• 5/16" drill bit (for drilling exhaust manifold for EGT probe)
• 1/8" NPT tap, and tap handle (for EGT probe)
• Drill
• Side cutters or equivalent (for cutting boost hose)
• Standard & Metric 1/4" & 3/8" drive socket set
• Standard & Metric wrench set

After yous open the hood, disconnect ane of the battery terminals before moving on with the rest of the install.

It is a proficient idea to pre-wire the pod on a clean workbench. I recommend that as you lot wire the gauges, you go on the gauges hanging only outside of each of their positions. This ensures that when you are finished and you push the gauges back into the pod, there will be plenty of wire left over for service if y'all e'er need to remove a judge to replace a calorie-free bulb or whatever other reason.

Wire the grounds for the lighting together to form one common footing wire for the lighting. Due to separating the grounds, you lot might mark the finish of the lighting ground wire, and so that you know which is which for when you lot install the pillar in a later step. Yous tin can mark it with a uncomplicated piece of tape.
Wire the grounds for the gauges together to form 1 common ground for the gauges (these are recommended to be grounded separately from lighting).

Wire the powers for the pyrometer and the trans temp together to form one common ability for both gauges. Run a wire from the "Southward" (sender) terminal of the transmission temperature gauge. You lot will use the female slide on terminals for the trans temp gauge.

Install the pyrometer leads onto the guess. Pay attention to the ring terminals on the yellow EGT wire. The cease with the larger holes in the terminals goes to the gauge.

Install the boost judge line adapter to the guess, and then carefully unroll the boost line. Slide the nut onto the line, then slide the ferrule onto the line. Insert the line, ferrule, and nut onto the adapter and tighten. Practise NOT over-tighten as this volition over-crush the ferrule and potentially compression off the line or break the line.
Neatly arrange the wiring together and use naught ties to parcel them together. Route the (now bundled) wires through the lower grab handle hole of the original colonnade.

Advisedly fit the new colonnade onto the original colonnade with the wiring exiting through the lower grab handle hole of the original colonnade.

Once you lot have the new pillar in the desired location, hold the two pillars together and have an assistant drill (6x) 3/16" diameter holes in various locations through both mated pillars. These holes are used to install the rivets (push pins) that concur the pillars together. We propose that you evenly infinite them (3 forth each side) toward the edge of the colonnade.

Push button the rivets (push-pins) through the drilled holes. It is also recommended that you button each push-pin through after each hole is drilled to foreclose mis-drilling due to the pod shifting on the factory pillar cover. While getting ready to install the pillars into the truck, take an assistant expect up, nether the dash while yous outset to feed the wires down through the opening between the dash and where the pillar will go. At that place is plenty of room for the wires. The new gauge colonnade mountain will exist a snug fit going dorsum in. Take your time and make certain that the clips all marshal from the original colonnade to the metal pillar construction earlier pushing the pillar assembly fully into place.

While under the dash, achieve backside the headlight switch and push it from behind, out of the nuance. Locate the blue wire with a blood-red stripe. Strip about 1/iv" of insulation off of the wire and wrap the bared terminate of the white lighting wire coming from your pillar to this wire. Solder it and and so tape it to insulate it.

Push the headlight switch back into the dash.

Remove the lower dash panel to access the interior fuse box past pulling straight back.

Side by side, remove the cover off of the fuse box.

Along the far-right side of the fuse box, at the lesser, you will find a 15a fuse, which is also the manufactory Instrument Cluster fuse. Remove this fuse and install it into the Add-a-Circuit kit. Install a 3a fuse into the wire-side of the Add-a-Circuit kit. Crimp or solder your red wire coming from the colonnade to the cherry wire on the Add-a-Circuit kit.

You will demand to carefully trim a small pass-through in the side of the fuse box cover for the wire to pass through when the cover is installed.

To the right of the fuse box, you volition find several manufactory grounds. Run the lighting footing (the wire you marked earlier) from the colonnade to one of these mill grounds. Yous may use a crimp-on band terminal for this. Later on this is continued, your gauge lights volition now role.

Choose a suitable location to the left of the steering column and drill a iii/8" bore hole in the firewall (see image at right for suggested location) and insert a rubber grommet. Exist careful non to drill into any existing wires or components on the other side.

Begin passing the pyrometer leads, boost line, existing footing wire, and trans temp wire through the grommet. Have an assistant on the other side gently pull on the wires. This may be a tight fit, and then using silicone spray, WD-40, PB Blaster, or equivalent (sparingly) on the wires will make them slide through the grommet much easier.

Notice a location on the engine, such as on the end of a cylinder head, or intake manifold where you can connect the guess footing wire to. With gauges, it is always best to footing directly to the engine whenever possible.

Road the heave line to the passenger side, to the MAP sensor, which is mounted on summit of the heater-a/c box on the passenger side of the engine bay. Exist certain to route the boost line then that it does not become melted from heat from the turbo.

Pare dorsum the plastic covering from the hose that goes to the MAP sensor. Use a pair of side cutters and cutting the hose in half. Slide both ends of the cut hose onto the two opposing ends of 3 way i/4" T plumbing fixtures.

Recover the MAP sensor line with the plastic roofing to finish the T-fitting installation.

Road the pyrometer leads away from any hot sources, or moving parts (such as the steering column), and downwardly to the underside of the vehicle in the expanse of the driver'south side manifold.

From under the vehicle, mark a location toward the rear of the manifold and drill a 5/16" diameter pigsty. Some installers prefer to grease the flake to help capture metal shavings. Be careful as the shavings may be hot and you do not desire to go these shaving in your eyes! Rubber glasses are a must!

After drilling the hole, dip your ane/viii" NPT pipe tap into some grease, and run the tap about halfway into the hole.

Next, install the double male person plumbing equipment that came with your probe. The fine threads-side of the fitting installs into the newly drilled and tapped hole.

Slide the probe into the fitting, and tighten the nut. Slide the supplied probe heat shrink onto the probe leads. Connect the yellow probe wire to the yellow probe lead, and so the red to red. Employ the supplied basics and bolts. The yellow EGT probe wire may need to be folded due to differences in length. Heat the rut compress over the connections.

Deeply, package up the excess probe wire length. Do not cutting, shorten, or modify the EGT wire.

Run your transmission temp sender wire along the same path as your EGT wire, ending virtually the driver'south side of the manual.

Y'all volition discover a threaded in pipe plug, but higher up the trans pan. Remove this plug.

Install the trans temp sender into this port. Your kit should accept come with a short sender, which is a sender that has no probe extending beyond the threads. Some before kits had the standard sender, which does take a probe. If your kit has the sender with a probe, then please contact our Tech Back up team, and enquire them for the shorter model 2259 sender.
** The reason for the shorter sender, is that the longer i may bottom out in this port. If yous choose to use the longer sender, you will and then have to alter the pan to accept a 1/viii" NPT thread size. Crimp or solder a ring terminal onto the cease of the trans temp sender wire, so install on the trans temp sender. You are now fix to start the truck!

Upon power up, the pyrometer should go to a range between 0 and 150 (depending on outside temp, and some variance is acceptable at low temperatures). The Pyrometer (EGT) will keep to climb as the exhaust temp becomes hotter or when the truck is driven nether load.

The trans temp will be the slowest to respond and will crave driving the truck for some time and may require some load.

Inspect routing of all wiring to make sure there is no risk of it hanging below the dash, condign chafed, burnt, or melted. Use zip ties to carefully secure routing of the wiring.

Source: https://www.autometer.com/blog/installing-a-triple-gauge-kit-in-a-1997-2007-ford-powerstroke/

Posted by: wilsonmolaing1942.blogspot.com

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